Having established a name for himself after already 8 years on the haute couture circuit, Mabile continues to impress with old-world experimentation and ultra ladylike style suiting both grandmothers and teenage royalty. This season was dedicated to the aesthetic of Cy Twombly as seen by the choice of pastel colour palate and unique shaping. The light blues and creams, as well as ruffles and lace, cemented an aura of banished french aristocracy. Experimentation of the silhouette can be applauded from the very sleek to the very, very buoyant (petticoats included).
The juxtaposition of the shaping is what left a slightly sour taste on my tongue, as well as the imbalance of icy, metallic against frilly and delicate. An example is the beige evening gown in shiny silk, billowing out revealing romantic ruffles around the hem and bosom, then synched together with a utilitarian belt. While this reminds us of the influence of Galliano during his reign at Dior (where Mabile designed the accessories collection), the style didn’t quite require a fanfare from the fashion gods. The metallic influence toward the end of the collection could even be described as robot couture.
An interesting concept but not fully satisfying. For me, the simpler the better, with my stand out pieces being look 6 – bare shoulder, romantic, touches of lace and look 11, reminding me of Gwenyth on the red carpet circa 2001. Overall, possible awkward shaping but couture is art and how can you judge someone on experimentation and risk taking?